How A Suit Should Fit – Men’s Clothing Fit Guide
– Hi, I’m Ashley Weston. I’m a celebrity menswear stylist. This video is part of my men’s clothing fit guide. Today, we are here … (beep) I am here. Today, I am here. (beep) Okay. Today, I’m here to talk about how a suit should fit. Ooh, that’s like a tongue twister. Say that real fast. I have Michael here to help demonstrate how your suit should fit. Let’s take a look at the jacket’s collar. Your collar should lie against the back of your shirt collar, which in turn, should lie against your neck. You wanna make sure there’s no significant gaps in between your jacket collar and your shirt collar.
Moving onto the shoulders, you wanna make sure that your seam hits where your shoulder ends. There shouldn’t be any wrinkling. Sometimes very cheaply made suits will wrinkle right here, and there shouldn’t be a divot in the shoulder. Divots usually happen when the shoulders are too tight. Make sure that the shoulders aren’t too tight or too large because it’s gonna be pretty costly and difficult for a tailor to fix. With regards to arm holes, luckily today, most suits are made with higher armholes. You just wanna make sure that it’s not so high that it’s literally cutting into your armpits. Michael, how does this feel? – Feels good, not too tight. –
This is how an arm hole should look and feel. A lot of the older suits, the arm holes are cut bigger and it actually makes you look super broad and terrible. Usually today, you don’t have that problem, but just be careful. You want higher arm holes, but not so high that it cuts into your armpits. With your jacket sleeves, you wanna make sure it’s a nice tailored fit throughout the arm. You don’t want it to be so tight that it’s hugging your muscles, but you also don’t want it to be so loose where you really lose the shape of your arm. With regards to the perfect sleeve length, a great test that I have is bend your wrist with your palms facing down.
The jacket sleeve should end a quarter of an inch above the bend of your wrist. That way, that same amount of shirt sleeve can peek through like we have here. You wanna make sure that the jacket lightly hugs your midsection when it’s buttoned like we have here. It shouldn’t create a nasty X. That’s what you don’t want. That means it’s too tight if it creates this kind of X. Also, if it’s loose and there’s a lot of room in the front where you can pull the button forward, no problem. A tailor can easily take in the sides and correct that. Let’s take a look at the back ’cause this is the second part. You always wanna make sure a well-fitting suit should hug the natural curve of your back. That’s how you can tell that a suit jacket fits nicely or poorly. Turning you around, Michael, your button stance. That’s also very, very important.
You wanna make sure that the top button hits just above your belly button right here, nothing higher or lower because it actually starts to throw off the proportions of your body. While you’re at it, for a two-button notched lapel suit, always, always fasten the top button but never this bottom button. The length of your jacket dictates how balanced your upper body is to your lower body. If you’re 5’9″ and under, you want the length of your jacket to hit mid crotch. If you’re taller, like Michael is, you want it to end around mid to lower crotch.
A tailor can always take up the length of the jacket by about an inch, but nothing more than that because it starts to throw off the proportions of the jacket. A tailor can never let length in a jacket because there’s just no fabric to even let out. How should your suit pants fit? Let’s take a look at the waist and the seat. The waist of your pants should always fit comfortably, you guessed it, around your waist. You don’t need a belt to hold it up and it should actually sit about the upper hip bone. Always, suit pants will sit higher up than your jeans would. Taking a look at the seat of your pants, which is the butt area, you want it to lightly hug your butt.
It shouldn’t be saggy or too tight where it’s gonna literally seem like it’s going to rip if you bend or sit down. For the legs, you wanna be able to pinch about half an inch of fabric on either side of your thigh, but no more than an inch. If you’re able to pinch more than an inch of fabric on either side, then have your tailor slim the legs. Lastly, for the hem of your pants, you want a slight break.
That’s the perfect amount where it’s nice and sharp and polished. What I do with all my clients is that I have my tailor hem the pants so that it’s slightly longer in the back. That way when you’re walking, it doesn’t show too much of your sock and then when you’re standing, it actually lays nicely along your shoe. Like I said before, this video is part of my men’s clothing fit guide.
Thanks so much for watching. Check out my website for a more in-depth article and subscribe to my channel for more videos like this. I’ll see you in the next one. Seams should lie where your natural … Natural … (beep) Hell. Seam should … – Lie where your shoulder naturally ends. – Should end where your … End where the shoulders … (giggling) I’m so sorry. Lies where your shoulder ends. (laughing) I was trying to say it so slow so I would not say …